5. All Generations (1967 - present)

Q: What are the GM customer service phone numbers??

A: Pontiac: 1-800-762-2737 and Chevy: 1-800-222-1020. These numbers can put you in touch with people who can give you information, take complaints, and find out the status of your order.

Q: Where can I get authentication documents and information for my car?

A: If you have a Pontiac, send your VIN and $35 to Pontiac Historic Services, P.O. Box 884, Sterling Heights, MI 48311-0884. They'll provide a copy of the window sticker and other info regarding your car. If you have a Chevy which was built in Canada, then call 1-800-263-3830 and ask for the Vintage Department. They charge $45 for the information. As for US Chevys, while there is currently no "official" service which provides such information, a company called AAA Enterprises (317-875-7635) can possibly get you a copy of your window sticker. If you know the name of the original owner and the dealership he or she purchased it through, call that dealership, give them the original owner's name. They should have a file with the original invoice Get a copy of the invoice and you can send it to AAA. They will get you a very close-to-original window sticker. Also, you can give AAA your VIN and every available option down to floor mats, and they will produce a window sticker from that info. It may not be exactly the same as the original, but it's close. AAA provides this for Pontiacs, too.

Q: Where can I get GM original parts catalogs?

A: To obtain an order form for parts catalogs, contact:

     GM Photographic
     Publication Processing Center
     31752 Enterprise Drive
     Livonia, MI  48150
     313-422-2993

     Bell & Howell Publications Systems Company
     General Motors Representative
     1909 Old Mansfield Road
     Wooster, OH 44691-9050
     800-221-5362 (voice)
     216-264-6616 (fax)

     11  Chevrolet Passenger Parts & Illus. Catalog - 1965-1975    $10.00
     20  Pontiac   Passenger Parts & Illus. Catalog - 1965-1975    $10.00
     10  Chevrolet Passenger Parts & Illus. Catalog - 1976-1981    $10.00
     21  Pontiac   Passenger Parts & Illus. Catalog - 1976-1981    $10.00
     17F Chevrolet "F" Car   Parts & Illus. Catalog - 1982-1992    $12.00
     22F Pontiac   "F" Car   Parts & Illus. Catalog - 1982-1992    $12.00
     18F Chevrolet "F" Car   Parts & Illus. Catalog - 1993-1995     $5.00
     25F Chevrolet "F" Car   Parts & Illus. Catalog - 1993-1995     $5.00
     89A GM Standard parts, maint. products and Label Catalog       $6.00

Q: Are Technical Service Bulletins (TSBs) available on-line?

A: One supplier of TSBs and repair manuals on CD-ROM is a company called AllData. CDs are released on a quarterly basis. For those of you with a WWW browser, AllData is on the Net:

           http://www.alldata.tsb.com/

           ftp.alldata.tsb.com, login: anonymous

Once you download it, you have to contact them to get a password and then you get 10 free minutes of usage time (BIG WHOOP!) After that, there's a look-up fee per inquiry.

For more info, send mail to gold@alldata.com.

Q: Will installing aftermarket parts void my warranty?

A: In most cases, "NO". The only way a dealer can void the warranty is if they can undeniably prove that the part(s) you installed caused the problem you brought in to be fixed. And even if they deny warranty work, the warranty itself CANNOT be voided. That is, if you installed new heads or a cam, engine warranty claims could be denied, but suspension, brakes, and other claims must be honored by the dealership. When it comes to basic intake and exhaust parts, most of that aftermarket equipment is EPA and SEMA approved. That means the car should not fail any emissions testing, and warrant work cannot be denied as such. So denials of this nature should be reported to the EPA at 202-233-9040 or 202-233-9100. For all other denials of implied or expressed warranties, you might want to get the help of the Federal Trade Commission at 202-326-3128.

Q: What is the difference between Net and Gross horsepower?

A: Prior to 1972, dyno testing was done with an open exhaust, no air cleaner, best fuel and timing for power, high octane leaded gas, and no accessory drives. To correct the observed data, a standard correction factor (29.92 inches of barometric pressure at 60 degrees Fahrenheit dry air) was used. This is defined as the Gross Horsepower rating. In 1972, with the crunch of the fuel crisis and insurance crack-downs, the SAE called for a switch to a Net Horsepower rating. This required the engine to be dressed with all the accessory drives (altenator, power steering pump, AC compressor, AIR pump) and full production exhaust system. Also, the engine was tuned to safe fuel and spark curves, and the standard correction factor was changed to 29.24 inches of barometric pressure at 77 degreees Fahrenheit dry air. All this works to reduced the horsepower measurement on the dyno, and thus the HP measurements advertised by the manufacturers.

While both net and gross horsepower readings are taken at the crankshaft, converting from Gross HP to Net HP is not possible because of the way the engines are configured on the dyno during testing. Therefore, there is no accurate way to compare pre-1972 (gross) horsepower to 1972-and-later (net) figures.

Q: What is wrong if my car refuses to turn over or even crank?

A: Assuming the battery isn't completely dead, try these steps:

1) Turn on the headlights and turn the key to "start". If the headlights do not dim, check for an open in the starting system. If the headlights do dim go to step 2.

2) Check the battery.

3) If the battery is OK, check all connections (at the battery, the starter solenoid, and motor).

4) Test the starter solenoid. The starter may turn over during these checks, so make sure car is in neutral. The battery must be charged for theses tests:

A) Disable the ignition (remove the coil wire).

B) Have an assistant turn the ignition key to "start" while you listen for a click at the solenoid. If it clicks, go to step F. If the click is weak or the solenoid chatters, go to step D.

C) If there's no click, remove the wire that actuates the solenoid from the terminal on the solenoid. Check for a bad connection (corrosion, looseness etc.).

D) Connect a jumper wire between the battery positive terminal and the solenoid's terminal that actuates it. A click indicates normal solenoid operation. If there's no click or if the click is weak or the solenoid chatters, check for a loose solenoid, corrosion at the solenoid base, or other causes of a bad solenoid ground. If the solenoid is tight and grounded properly and still doesn't click, replace the solenoid.

E) While an assistant turns the key to "start", check for voltage at the control circuit wire with a voltmeter. If no voltage is at the wire, there's an open in the circuit to the solenoid. Re-connect the wire.

F) Have an assistant turn the key to "start" while you check for voltage drop between the battery cable terminal and the starter motor strap. The voltage drop should not exceed .2 volts. If it does, replace the solenoid.

5) Check to make sure the battery cables can carry enough amperage to start the car by checking for a voltage drop.

6) Test the starter voltage draw. Use an inductive ammeter and have an assistant crank the car for about 10 seconds. It shouldn't exceed about 250 amps. If that is excessive, and there are no large voltage drops anywhere else in the circuit, the starter is bad and need replacement.

Q: How can I keep my car from being stolen?

A: Nothing is guaranteed to keep a car from being stolen. If a thief wants your car they can get it. However there are things you can do to make your car harder to steal. An anti-theft deterrent will be enough to stop joy riders and will hopefully be enough to make the potential thief move on to easier targets.

Some tips on things to do:

1. Steering Column Collar -- a steel collar which locks around your steering cloumn prevents a thief from breaking it open and popping out the ignition tumbler. These locks are much better than the Club.

2. Ignition Kill -- prevents the engine from being started until a switch has been thrown. Make sure it's hidden in a non-obvious place. A crook scouting out cars might catch on if they see you popping the hood before leaving work each day.

3. Good car alarm -- while most professional thieves can usually get around any car alarm, it will protect you from joy-riders and the thief who either doesn't have enough time to work around the alarm and is only looking for small items (stereo, air bags, etc.) and doesn't want the whole car or the bother.

4. Etched windows -- There's a national company which chemically etches a serial number into each window of your car. This number can be reported to the police if the car is stolen. How is it a deterrent? Most cars are stolen for parts (except joy riders). Windows are a common replacement on cars. No glass or window shop is going to buy parts with non-removable serial numbers that are registered with the police. A professional thief knows this and will probably avoid the car. Even if it's taken a local shop, re-VIN'ed and resold, all the windows would have to be replaced.

   For more information on these companies, check with your dealer. Some companies they might deal with are:

   Auto Shield
   1-800-346-5703

   They have a warranty such that if the car is stolen in the first 12 months they will reimburse you up to $1500 to cover your insurance deductable and part of the depreciation. Second year is $1000 up to the fifth year when you get $500.

   Safe-Guard
   PO Box 88120
   Atlanta, GA 30356
   404-396-1288

   Traceable ID codes
   Warning decals
   24 hour tracking service
   $2500 or $5000 limited warranty

5. Common sense -- avoid leaving valuables in plain sight in the car. Lock up/hide everything, even if it's just some plastic bags of junk. Avoid parking the car in dark, out-of-the way areas where an alarm might go unheard or the car is out of sight. (Hence giving the thief more time to defeat elaborate alarms, etc.) Don't assume a parking lot attendant is going to watch your car. Even "manned" parking lots are often left completely unguarded for hours.

A: A company called Rhino Ramps (1-800-283-6188) makes a set at an angle that won't even harm the 4th gen cars or cars lowered by springs. They're molded from glass filled polycarbonate, have non-slip rubber pads on the bottom surfaces and are wide enough for 275 tires.

You could also build your own by nailing some boards together, staggering them at a gentle enough slope so as not scrape the air dam. From the side, they'd look something like this:

     ________________                   
     |_______________\________          
     |________________________\________  
     |_________________________________\

Q: What is a PF35L large/elongated oil filter and will it fit my car?

A: This is the same diameter oil filter as the PF25 (standard 350 ci engine) filter, except it is longer. The standard one filters down to 30 microns, which means any particles 29 microns or smaller will continue to circulate. The PF35L has synthetic filter element which filters down to 12 microns which means 11 microns or smaller is the circulating chunk size. Because the filter is larger, it requires almost an extra 1/2 quart of oil to be added to crankcase.

This longer filter fits and aligns flush with oil pan on 305 and 350 cubic inch engines in the the 3rd and 4th generation F-bodies, so there's little risk of having it bottom out on bumps. But BEWARE if you have a 1995 model with an oil cooler housing since GM redesigned the '95 cooler which causes the PF35L to hang slightly below the oil pan thereby taking the risk that it may hit the ground on bumps and dips. No 1996 or later models got a cooler so there should be no problem there.

   Quote from Hot Rod:
   >
   > "FILTER TIP"
   >
   > "Chevy's new V8 heavy-duty "race" oil filter (GM 25013454 or AC PF-35L)
   > can replace any PF-25 or PF-35 filter. Its 100-percent synthetic element
   > is rated at 12 microns and is so efficient that engine wear is reduced
   > by 75-percent in comparison to conventional filters-all without
   > restricting oil flow.
   >
   > (Courtesy Cone Chevrolet.)"

   Terry Quinn (tquinn@heartland.bradley.edu) wrote:
   > The following information is not specific to the PF35L, but I'm
   > hoping that it applies.
   > A few years ago, we were working with a filter manufacturer that was
   > promoting synthetic (glass fiber) powertrain oil filters. They had
   > extensive data on the difference between that type of filter and a
   > conventional paper filter.
   > While the synthetic filter is rated for smaller particle collection,
   > that is not the only significant advantage.
   > When filters are rated, they frequently do a so-called "multi-pass"
   > test.  I don't remember all the particulars, but contaminated oil is
   > circulated through the filter, under constant flow, a number of times,
   > and the amount of partical removal or collection (cannot remember which
   > way it is tested) after a specified number of passes, determines the
   > micron rating.  All the dirt is not removed in one pass.
   > This standard steady state test, with a constant flow, does not tell
   > the whole story, however.  What this filter company demonstrated was
   > that when a filter is subjected to pressure or flow surges (such as
   > when starting with cold oil, or even as the flow changes), the filter
   > media will flex.  Paper media will then tend to release some of the 
   > contaminants back into the flow stream, in a process termed "desorption."
   > The following information is not specific to the PF35L, but I'm hoping 
   > that it applies.                                            
   >                                                                    
   > A few years ago, we were working with a filter manufacturer that was
   > promoting synthetic (glass fiber) powertrain oil filters.  They had
   > extensive data on the difference between that type of filter and
   > a conventional paper filter.
   >
   > While the synthetic filter is rated for smaller particle collection,
   > that is not the only significant advantage.            
   >
   > When filters are rated, they frequently do a so-called "multi-pass"
   > test.  I don't remember all the particulars, but contaminated oil
   > is circulated through the filter, under constant flow, a number of
   > times, and the amount of partical removal or collection (cannot
   > remember which way it is tested) after a specified number of passes,
   > determines the micron rating.  All the dirt is not removed in one pass.
   >
   > This standard steady state test, with a constant flow, does not tell
   > the whole story, however.  What this filter company demonstrated was
   > that when a filter is subjected to pressure or flow surges (such as
   > when starting with cold oil, or even as the flow changes), the filter
   > media will flex.  Paper media will then tend to release some of the
   > contaminants back into the flow stream, in a process termed
   > "desorption."  The standard multipass test will not show this to be
   > a problem, but the release of the contaminants was very significant,
   > and negated much of the advantage of the filtration.
   >
   > The glass fiber media was much more resistant to desorption than the
   > paper media.  It also took out more of the contamination in the first
   > pass.  But was also considerably more expensive.  My employer,
   > Caterillar,  then co-developed a filter with a patented spiral wrap
   > strap around the media to prevent flexing and desorption.
   >
   > So lacking the ability to use a Caterpillar filter (I don't yet have
   > one of our 10.2 liter diesels in my 93 T/A :-), I'm using the PF35Ls
   > with great confidence that they will make a big difference in engine
   > life.

Q: What GM oil filters will fit my 350?

A: Here is a summary of the AC-Delco filters for the 350 F-Body engines:

       Filter                  Anti-       Element
       Number    Length        Drainback   Type
       -------------------------------------------------------------------
       PF-25     Short (3-4")  No          Duragard (20-micron paper)
       PF-35     Long (5.5")   No          Duragard (20-micron paper)
       PF-35L    Long (5.5")   No          Ultragard (12-micron synthetic)
       PF-1218   Long (5.5")   Yes         Duragard (20-micron paper)

Q: Why does my car smoke momentarily when I first start it up?

A: It depends on what color the smoke is. If it's white, then you probably have a leaky head gasket which allows coolant to drip into the combustion chamber while the car is sitting. The next time you start the car, it's burned off, producing a heavy white steam (almost to the point of smoke). The head gasket should be replaced, otherwise you run the risk of blowing it while driving resulting in dumping a good deal of coolant into the engine followed by overheating if you don't shut the engine.

If it's black smoke then that's excess fuel burning off. This could be the sign of an overly rich fuel mixture. But it might also be a leaking fuel injector. While the car sits, gas leaks into the combustion chamber and the next time you start the car, it all burns off in a black puff of smoke. A leaking fuel injector should be replaced, although it's not life or death.

Finally, there is blue smoke. This is oil. It's probably the valve seals and/or guides which need to be replaced. The seals/guides leak oil into the combustion chamber while the car sits. Next time you start it up, the oil burns off resulting in smoke with a definite blue tint/color. Fixing the problem can be pretty expensive. Although if it's the valve seals, many mechanics have a tool that blows air into the combustion chamber via the spark plug hole which allows the valve seals to be removed without removing the entire head. But it's still expensive. If the car isn't burning a large amount of oil, then it's probably not worth fixing.

Q: My carbureted car sat for a year and now dies just after every start?

A: Assuming the gas isn't bad and the fuel filter isn't clogged, it could be a number of things. First check for a hung float or trash between the needle and seat. The float may also be collapsed which will cause the needle to stay off the seat and the engine will flood due to too much fuel.

Also, after sitting for so long, varnish can form on all the carburetor's internal surfaces and passages. So disassemble it and clean it up. Pour some "Berrymans B-12" or equivalent in the fuel bowl to dissolve the years of accumulated varnish and gunk. You can even leave some in the bowl and fire up the engine. This will clean the passages by forcing it through. But be warned, Berrymans is very flammable and it will take off paint, so extreme care should be used.

Q: My fuel injected car ran out of gas and now won't start even with gas?

A: Try priming the fuel rail pressure by turning on the key (without engaging the starter). The fuel pump should run 2-3 seconds (a low hum/buzz) and then shut off. Turn the key off for 10-15 seconds. Repeat this 2-step sequence several times. There may be a flood condition - if so press the accelerator pedal to the floor and the ECM will go into a "clear flood" mode. Then try cranking the engine.

If you didn't hear the hum/buzz of the fuel pump as mentioned above, then you've it's possible that you've blown a fuse or burned out the fuel pump motor. Check the owner's manual for the proper fuel pump fuse location. The worst possible case is a burned out pump.

Otherwise, the fuel pump could have sucked in some sludge from the fuel tank as it was starving for fuel, in which case you could have a blockage somewhere in the fuel line. Hopefully, it's only in the fuel filter which you can replace yourself. Otherwise, the entire fuel line probably needs a professional cleaning.

Q: What could make my fuel injected car feel sluggish?

A: Assuming you've tried a fuel injector cleaner which is added to the gas tank, you might want to try having the injectors professionally cleaned. This involves disconnecting the fuel pump and hooking up a can of injector cleaner to fuel rail. Then you run the engine which uses the cleaner to clean out the injectors. It could also be the knock sensor which is installed into the block and can be over torqued. When this condition exists, it makes the sensor very sensitive to engine noise which can cause the timing to retard when there is no detonation which reduces power. You can check the torque of the sensor or even add some compound or teflon tape to reduce the sensitivity.

Q: What is an adjustable fuel pressure regulator and how does it work?

A: Fuel injected engines have a regulator just before gas flows into the injectors. The regulators ensure that consistent pressure is maintained (through better atomization of the fuel spray) as gas flows into the injectors. The pressure is measured in pounds per square inch (psi). A number of companies (like TPIS) sell adjustable regulators that allow you to vary (increase or decrease) the pressure/flow of the gas there by modifying performance.

There's an adjustable screw on the regulator used to set the pressure. There are usually no marks on the regulator showing you the exact pressure setting, so it's really hit or miss when you're adjust it. There are a number of fuel pressure gauges (like that from NOS) which can give you a more accurate measurement. This is probably the best way to go.

Before you start setting the pressure, remember to have the key in the "ON" position, but do not have the engine running. Once you have your base down (say like 49 psi) approximately 1/4 of a turn will give you a 3 to 4 psi increase. But it's much easier with a gauge if you can get one.

Q: What superchargers are available?

A: Both Vortech and Paxton (Granatelli) have superchargers available. Both have claims which are upwards of 385 HP and 400 lb-ft of torque on the 4th generation LT1s. This would also require intake/exhaust flow modifications as well. The blowers require no major mechanical mods but must use a big pulley to keep boost low since the LT1 is running 10.5:1 compression ratio. Both systems cost between $3000 and $4000 depending on dealer and installation charges can run you upwards an additional $600. One of the main differences between the two, is the Vortech gears are lubricated by the engine oil and the Paxton has it's own lubrication system. People running them are extremely happy with them. Although complaints of leaky rear main seals and head gaskets are not uncommon. Plus Paxton's technical support has not been given many high scores. ATI Prochargers should have some on the market very soon as well (9 psi, 12 psi, and 17psi). So will Powerdyne which uses a patented kevlar toothed belt internally with aerospace quality ceramic/metalic bearings so that no oil lubrication is required. They're also working on an intercooler option. They say that it's not as necessary with their blower because the outlet temps aren't nearly as high, but it still helps to boost the HP levels with a lower inlet temp. 6 psi and 9 psi boost levels are slated.

Something to watch out for is the 1994 and later cars which have traction control (ASR). That's because the TC unit is right where the supercharger pump gets located. You will ultimately have to move this part of the brake system to where the old stock air filter box went (behind the driver side headlight). This means openning and extending the brake lines.

Q: What is Mass Air Flow (MAF) vs. Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP)?

A: The Mass Aif Flow (MAF) sensor is device that detects the flow of air going into the engine. In the sensor there is a wire called a hot wire anemometer that the computer puts power through. As the air passes over the wire, it makes a cooling effect, and the computer will alter the resistance of wire. This reading, along with other sensor readings, is then used to determine and set the correct air/fuel ratio, fuel flow, and timing for the engine. This method of airflow measurement allows the car's computer to more easily adapt to modifications like freer flowing intake and exhaust systems. The downside is the MAF's screen and wires impeed airflow slightly. But read further on for possible modifications.

The Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor is a device which monitors manifold vacuum. It's sometimes referred to as speed density. It is connected to a vacuum nipple on the throttle body and electrically to the engine controller. The sensor transmits information on manifold vacuum conditions and barometric pressure to the car's computer. Based on lookup tables, the MAP sensor data along with data from other sensors is used to determine the correct air/fuel ratio, fuel flow, and timing based on RPMs and throttle position. Changes in throttle can be reacted on more quickly than with MAF since the lookup tables work much quicker as there's no loop to look for a MAF reading and followed by a calibration. Also, there's no hinderance to airflow MAP since it's a sensor working inside the intake manifold However, this method is less adaptable to engine modifications since the lookup tables are meant for the stock air flow setup and they can't be changed without reprogramming the computer or chaning the chip.

Q: Should I remove my Mass Air Flow (MAF) screen?

A: Alot of times you will hear about people removing their MAF screens. These are a number of wires (as described above) in a cross section through the air intake. On the 3rd generation cars, removing these MAF screens can increase air flow by upwards of 200 cfm (~40%) yielding better performance (throttle repsonse). The problem is that the MAF allows you to make modifications to the engine where the ECM will be able to calibrate itself better than a MAP system can. Without the screens, the computer may not adjust itself for as it could with the screens. Although no 3rd gen owners (with or without modifications) have really had problems removing the screens, it seems that there isn't much advantage to doing this on the 4th gens because the screens aren't that inhibiting. Some 4th gen dyno results have shown no gains by removing the screen.

It's also important to note that the '93 LT1s use MAP (no screen), where as the '94s and up use MAF.

Q: What happens to the MAF sensor when a supercharger is installed?

A: The MAF is barely visible as it's mounted down between the air filter and the supercharger intake. Also, the Paxton includes Paxta-Map unit contains three injectors in a mount and a remote programmer that lets you turn them on/off individually or in series as the boost increases/decreases. Its purpose is to keep the car from leaning out under heavy boost, which causes detonation. Originally, it was a $500 option, but now they include it as part of the supercharger kit.

Q: Can a supercharger be installed on a car with traction control?

A: Yes, however, the installation is hairy. You have to move the traction control unit (which is located right where the supercharger goes) to another location behind the driver's side headlight area. Then you have to splice, extend, and re-route the brake lines to do it. If you plan to do this, it's highly recommended that you go someplace that is "fabrication" savvy and not just simply mechanics savvy. There is a distinction. Also figure on an additional 6 to 8 hours of labor to do this.

Q: What are the benefits/drawbacks of a freer flowing air filter?

A: Free flowing air filters such as K&N can provide a minimal increase in power (maybe 5 HP). The materials they're made of allow air to flow through much more freely than through stock paper air filters. The drawback to this is that more dirt can also pass through the air filter since the pores are usually bigger to allow for freer air flow. Some people have claims that the filters are great, while others think they only foul up performance due to the dirt they allow in. The jury seems to be hung on this issue.

Q: What's the best aftermarket exhaust for my car?

A: It all boils down to personal preference. While each manufacturer claims to be better than all the others, there really isn't one which stands out over all the rest. In a recent mailing list poll, a number of 3rd and 4th generation owners responded with their experiences. Flowmaster, Borla, Street Legal Performance, and Dynomax seem to be the popular choices with Flowmaster and Borla having a slight advantage in popularity, but not by much. A good review was also given to Gale Banks. Flowmaster owners seemed to only make replacements to the muffler, while most others did a whole cat-back replacement. While there are no hard facts of improvements by replacing the whole exhaust system (cat-back), it seems to be the more popular choice. Flowmaster people don't think there's a difference, but the others think there might be in increasing the pipe diameters by 1/4 to 1/2 an inch. No matter which, a performance gain will be had by all.

As for noise levels, Flowmaster and SLP seemed to be somewhat noisier than stock and other systems. There was even mention of a droaning "hum" from Flowmaster at cruising speed. Whether this is plus or minus is, once again, a personal preference issue. Borla can also be loud if the baffle is open allowing exhaust to bypass the muffler. Dynomax seems to win the "mellow" award as there were no complaints of it being too loud at idle or cruise speeds. Of course all of the systems produce a roar at wide open throttle which can be heard from blocks away.

There weren't any real complaints about systems (as expected). The common praises include: Borla = adjustable bypass baffle is the biggest advantage providing adjustable performance and volume levels. Flowmaster = makes a performance car sound like it should - "mean". SLP = deep and throaty, 'nuff said. And Dynomax = sweet and mellow to the ears, yet getting on the throttle will remind you why it's there.

Finally, there's price. Borla is probably the most expensive at $600 and above. But it's also the only system with an open exhaust baffle to bypass the muffler and it's stainless steel (guaranteed for life). Whether the performance gain is that much higher over the others without the baffle, is still unknown. SLPs can be found for just under $400, Dynomax about $200, and Gale Banks about $300. Flowmasters can be found for under $100 because it's the muffler only.

Q: What aftermarket catalytic converters are available?

A: The cats on the 4th gen F-Bodies are probably the least restrictive of any production car. Not much can be gained by replacing it. Removing it or hollowing it out on the other hand can do wonders. But don't forget that's also illegal (at least for the street). For spend-thrifts, Random Technologies makes a free-flow cat for just about every F-Body.

Q: What else can be done to increase air flow and thus performance?

A: You can put on a larger throttle body size along with the addition of an air foil to smooth the flow of the air. 1 5/8" headers will probably provide one of the largest increases in power. Then there's also CNC (computer numerical control) porting of the heads which can be done, although that can get quite expensive, it's quite "THE" air-flow tweak.

Q: How does coolant flow through my engine?

A: In an original generation I type smallblock engine, coolant enters the front of the block and circulates through the block's water jacket. The coolant is heated by the cylinder cases, and then this hot coolant is then routed through the cylinder heads and intake manifold before returning through the thermostat to the radiator. Since the thermostat is on the exit side of the system, it does not have direct control over the cold water entering from the radiator, which enters the block all at once when the thermostat opens and causes an extreme thermal shock. Besides the shock to the system, this standard cooling technique sends coolant already heated by the block to the heads, thus promoting detonation.

The LT1 is completely different since it uses reverse flow cooling. The incoming coolant first encounters the thermostat, which is now on the inlet side of the system. Depending on the engine coolant temperature, cold coolant from the radiator is allowed to enter the engine. This allows a more controlled amount of cold coolant to enter, which mixes with the bypass coolant already flowing. This virtually eliminates the thermal shock present in the old system, since in essence the cold coolant is metered carefully in as necessary.

After entering through one side of the 2-way thermostat (at the appropriate temperature), the cold coolant is routed directly to the cylinder heads first, where the combustion chambers, spark plugs and exhaust ports are cooled. Then the now heated coolant returns to the engine block and circulates around the cylinder barrels. The hot coolant from the block now reenters the water pump, and hits the other side of the 2-way thermostat, where it is either recirculated through the engine or directed to the radiator, depending on temperature.

The main concept behind reverse flow cooling is to cool the heads first, which greatly reduces the tendandy for detonation, and is the primary reason that the LT1 can run 10.5 to 1 compression and significant ignition advance on today's gas. This is the key to the LT1s increased power over the generation I smallblock.

Both sides of the LT1 2-way thermostat are directly linked together, and there is only 1 wax pellet that controls the spring mechanism. Both the stock and Hypertech 160 degree units are "2-way" thermostats in that they regulate coolant flow both out of and into the engine, while the bypass portion of the thermostat supplies the water pump with a full flow of coolant at all times. This is very much unlike the generation I smallblock engine thermostat.

Q: Are there spark plugs available that fit better with headers?

A: Accel makes shorty U-groove plugs which are easily installed and removed with aftermarket headers.

Q: What can I tell by the color of my spark plugs?

A: Normally they will be black on the outer edge. But, the center electrode can be a number of colors:

• White - running lean (or it's a new plug)
• Light Gray - running good
• Light Reddish Gray - running good on gas with octane boosts
• Dull Black (soot) - running rich
• Shiny Black (oil) - bad rings and/or valve guides
• Gas (will smell) - no spark

Q: How can I prevent my header gaskets from blowing out?

A: Try replacing the header bolts with Stage-8 header bolts and also try using the LockTite compound for aluminum on your bolts.

Q: What is the purpose of a water injection system?

A: It is designed to let you safely run higher boost on a high compression engine (like that which is supercharged). It probably won't do anything for a stock engine, unless you bump compression so high that it detonates. The water cools the intake by 60-100 degrees F depending on the ambient temp and altitude. The hotter it is outside, the more it cools. It does this through the heat of vaporization of the water. The water also raises the apparent octane of the fuel by 10%, meaning it makes 93 octane run like 102. This is because the cooler charge burns slower and resists preignition. Another benefit is buffering of the combustion process and smoothing of the power strokes (that is, a tremendous increase in detonation resistance). All this allows you to run full timing advance and make more power.

The overall result is the same effect as an intercooler, but you don't have to increase the boost on the supercharger to make up for intercooler losses. That means less supercharger drag. Drawbacks are more maintenance. Once dialed in, it's transparent, but you do have to refill the water reservoir every so often, to ensure you don't run out under high boost. Also, the ignition system must be in top form. A weak ignition could experience misfire problems resulting in too much water being injected which will kill the combustion process and be harder on the rings and exhaust valves.

A good system that is properly calibrated can yield impressive results. It must be able to monitor both engine speed and boost level to determine how much water and when to inject.

Q: How does a water injection system work?

A: The system is powered by a 100-psi high-volume water pump that is triggered by a pressure switch attached to the intake manifold. It can be set to activate from just over 0-psi to over 10 psi (3 psi is a good point). Once activated, the system pulls water from the windshield washer tank using an adapter supplied in the kit and injects it through a stainless nozzle which is usually installed in the intake (supercharger) elbow (about 6 inches before the throttle body). Higher end systems have their own water tank, some of which are pressurized.

The nozzle is a precision device which meters the water in gallons per hour. It resembles a 1/2 inch ball bearing cut in half with a hole in it. A 12 or gal/hr nozzle should be sufficient for most applications, but a 15 gal/hr is good for higher boost levels. The water comes out under very high pressure as a fine mist in a conical shape, and is immediately pushed into the engine by the output of the supercharger.

In the tank is a mixture of distilled water and isopropyl alcohol. A water to alcohol ratio of 7:1 is good for the street and 3:1 for racing. The amount used by the system is very dependant on how often you activate it. It's very cheap so it shouldn't be a concern, as one gallon should last a long time.

Q: What is there to gain by using aftermarket rocker arms?

A: The small-block Chevy engine used stamped-steel rocker arms since its inception. They are light, strong, reliable, and adjustable. If you aren't modifying your engine with a high lift camshaft there is no need to replace the stock rockers.

The stock rocker arm ratio is 1.50:1, meaning that the rocker arm multiplies the cam lobe lift by a 1.50 factor. Thus a cam with a 0.300 cam lobe lift has a valve lift of 0.450 inches. A 1.60:1 rocker will provide 0.480 inches of lift at the valve on the same cam. Going from a 1.50 to 1.60 rocker ratio though will reduce the RPM at which the valves float. To maintain the same valve float speed, you must increase the valve spring pressure by 10%. Still, switching over to 1.60 ratio rocker arms is a good and relatively inexpensive way to get some more power (10 - 15hp) from your engine. Going beyond a 1.60 ratio can be expensive and will most likely require different pushrods in order to maintain correct geometry. Replacing the stock rocker arms with aftermarket 1.50 rockers will make a difference simply because they have tighter than stock tolerances in the manufacture of the parts. Typically, the stock 1.50 rockers will have less than the specified ratio, which means less valve lift with some valves getting .450, a few getting .420, and a few others getting .400. These diffences alone could cause a loss of power.

Be aware also, that you may have to enlarge the pushrod guide slots that are cast in the cylinder head with larger than 1.50 ratio rockers. The pushrod may hit the end of the slot because the pushrod seat on the rocker arm is moved closer to the stud in order to obtain the larger ratio. Naturally you will have to take the heads off to do so.

Q: How can I tell if I have a burnt/sticky valve or faulty piston ring?

A: If a cylinder's compression is low, that's usually indicitive of either a burnt/sticky valve or a faulty piston ring. To determine which it is, take a compression reading on the suspected cylinder, and then squirt in some oil down into the piston through that cylinder's spark plug hole. Then take another compression reading. If the pressure is the same, you've got a burnt/sticking valve. If it improves drastically (like 100 PSI or more), you've got a faulty piston ring.

Q: What happens to the compression ratio when you stroke a motor?

A: Stroking usually involves increasing the cubic inches. The compression ratio will go up. Compression ratio is the ratio of the cylinder and head volume with the piston at Top Dead Center (TDC) to the total volume at Bottom Dead Center (BDC). Since the piston is moving down further at BDC, but returning to the same position at TDC, the swept cylinder volume increases while the volume at TDC remains the same. Hence, the compression ratio increases.

Q: What is extrude honing?

A: Extrude Hone is a subdivision of PowerFlow Corp. It is actually slang now for the process that they perform on intakes, impellars (jet skis), heads, and exhaust manifolds. The process involves taking a metallic putty (like abrasive toothpaste) which is presssurized inside of the part to be "honed". The putty is moved/flowed back and forth by hydraulic pistons that are connected to the ports of the fixture/jig that is attached to your part. This abrasive scrubbing machines off a part of the finish, leaving it almost perfectly smooth. The process is also used to balance the flow in intakes, head ports, and exhaust ports since it is extremely accurate.

Q: What stock gear ratios came on the base GM trannies?

A: These came in a package from Greg Curless at Curless Racing:

     TRANSMISSION                      1ST      2ND       3RD      4TH     5TH 
                                                                            
   Borg-Warner T-5 (GM Applications) . 2.95     1.94      1.34     1.00    0.63
   Borg-Warner T-5 (GM Close Ratio) .. 2.75     1.94      1.34     1.00    0.74
   Borg-Warner T-10 2nd Design ....... 2.64     1.61      1.23     1.00     -  
   Borg-Warner T-10 2nd Design ....... 2.88     1.74      1.33     1.00     -  
   Borg-Warner T-10 2nd Design ....... 3.44     2.28      1.46     1.00     -  
   GM Muncie (M-21, M-22) ............ 2.20     1.64      1.28     1.00     -  
   GM Muncie (M-20) .................. 2.52     1.88      1.46     1.00     -  
   GM Powerglide ..................... 1.76     1.00       -        -       -  
   GM Turbo Hydra-Matic 350 .......... 2.52     1.52      1.00      -       -  
   GM Turbo Hydra-Matic 400 .......... 2.48     1.48      1.00      -       -  
   GM Turbo Hydra-Matic 200-R4 ....... 2.74     1.57      1.00     0.67     -  
   GM Turbo Hydra-Matic 700-R4 ....... 3.06     1.62      1.00     0.70     -  

Q: Can I replace my TH350 tranny with a TH400?

A: Yes. The motor/tranny bolts should line up, but you do have to shorten the driveshaft. You also have to deal with the dreaded Throttle Valve Cable to control your shifts, instead of the vacuum modulator. You have options regarding the different mounting pad location at the rear of the tranny. If you can get a TH400 crossmember for your car, or there is a TH400 mounting position for your current crossmember, then you can get a replacement tailshaft extension from GM that puts the mounting pad where you want it. Otherwise, you can move the crossmember to line up with the 700R4's pad and drill new frame holes to mount the crossmember. This way may sound easier, but some people have had problems with the height of the tailshaft, and had to fabricate or modify the crossmember. Also, the new holes in the frame have to be double-drilled. That is, you have to bore large holes in the bottom of the frame to get the bolts in, and smaller holes in the top, just like the factory holes.

Q: Can I replace my TH350 or TH400 tranny with a 700R4?

A: Yes. Similiar to the instructions above, but here are the parts that will be needed (including part numbers). The following are B&M parts: 700R4 Tranny 30-spline (117101), Hole Shot 2000RPM Lockup Converter (70417), TV Braket (90747), TV Cable (70242), and Converter Lockup Contol Dash Mounted (70244). Get a 700R4 tailhousing for the TH-400 bracket from Chevy (part# 8673406). You may also need a shortened driveshaft if you have a TH350. Finally, call Year-One for a TH-400 crossmember (part# 8606N for 67-69 models).

Q: Can I replace my TH400 or 700R4 tranny with a 4L60E or 4L80E?

A: Yes, but be prepared to do a lot of work to get it to fit and function. The converter for the 4L80E is a huge and heavy. And it's not cheap. A rebuilt unit will probably cost $1000 to $2000. Of course the driveshaft will have to match up and you will definitely need an aftermarket computer controller. Accel, Turbo Action, and Premier Performance Transmissions make them. They cost around $650 to $700 which includes the wiring harness. In order to use it, you need a throttle position sensor of some kind on the motor. Engine RPM is needed as well and it may be possible to pick it up from the tach. You might also need to convert to an electronic speedometer. Your best bet is to call Precision Turbo 708-418-5227. They've done a number of these conversions, but mostly on fuel injected cars.

Q: What can I do about a sqeaky clutch pedal?

A: Lay on your back on the driver's side floor with a flashlight and a can of teflon/silicone spray with a straw attachments affixed on it. Find the pivot point of the clutch pedal. You'll know you found the pivot point when your back is killing you because of the weird way you have to be bent to get access to it. Soak it with the spray (but WATCH your eyes). Then get up (if you can) and work the pedal a few times (make sure the parking brake is set). Repeat the procedure one more time. This should silence any noise coming from the pedal.

If this doesn't work, then the clutch actuator (clutch slave cylinder) might need to be replaced. This mechanism is mounted on the tranny and it pushes on the clutch fork.

Q: How can I easily determine what rearend gear ratio I have?

A: Jack up the whole rear of the car. While turning the tire on full rotation, count the number of times the drive shaft turns. A chalk mark can be used as a reference point. If you have a posi rear, then the number of turns of the driveshaft (per single wheel rotation) is your gearing (i.e. 3.50 turns would be a 3.50 rear, or a 3.55 more likely).

If you have an open (non-posi) rear, then you must multiply the number of driveshaft turns by 2 to get the gearing (i.e. 1.5 turns would be a 3.0 rear [1.5 * 2 = 3.0], or a 3.08 more likely). The reason for multipling by 2 is that in an open differential, the planitary gears cause the driveshaft to rotate half as fast as in a posi if only one tire is being rotated. Therefore, you must multiply the drive-shaft turns by 2 to get an accurate ratio, otherwise you must rotate one tire then the other (and not multiply). When one tire is not moving, the planitary gears are "walking" around the differential housing in the opposite direction causing the drive-shaft to rotate slower than if the diff were "locked".

Q: How can I determine if I have a "posi" rearend?

A: Turn one side of the rear end. If the other side turns the same direction, it's a Posi. If the other side turns in the opposite direction, it's not.

Q: How can I recalibrate my speedometer swapping for shorter/taller gears?

A: Cyberdyne sells a box which can recalibrate it. You can one from JEGS, Summit, or a local speed shops for around $65. On 1994 and newer cars, the speedometer can be recalibrated through the ECM with programmers like that from Hypertech. Tell them what gearing you have and they will create a customized program to recalibrate your speedometer.

Q: How can I recalibrate my automatic tranny shift points with a gear swap?

A: The only way to do it is to reprogram the ECM or replace the computer chip. As for aftermarket chips/programs, most of them which adjust the speedometer for gear changes, also modify tranny shift points at redline for wide open throttle. However the problem with these chips is that they don't modify the shift points under partial throttle. Since shorter gears (which are numerically higher, like 3.73) rev higher, the stock computer program/chip will still be shifting at its preset points. So the engine may hit 3000 or 4000 RPM before shifting (whereas before it would shift at 2000 RPM). Some people believe there is a Federal law which prohibits modification to the stock partial throttle shift points on automatic transmissions (most likely related to emissions), but this is possibly only rumor. Try contacting your chip/program company of choice and check with them about a custom set-up.

Q: What will trailing arms, a panhard rod, and a torque arm do for me?

A: Trailing arms will keep the rear straight, relative to the body, in the forward/aft direction. When you accelerate, they push the car forward. When you brake, they pull back on the body. They allow for the up/down motion of the axle when, for example, you hit a bump.

The panhard rod (probably called a "track bar" in the service manual) locates the rear axle, relative to the body, in the lateral, side-to-side direction. When you go around a turn, the centrifugal force generated on the body is transmitted to the rear end (which hopefully is sticking to the ground) via the panhard rod.

The torque arm locates the rear axle, relative to the body, rotationally. When you accelerate or brake, a torque moment is generated around the axle. The torque arm prevents the rear axle from rotating, and transmits the torque to the body of the car. So when you accelerate, the torque arm is pushing up on the body of the car.

A number of companies produce aftermarkets pieces which prvoide even better handling characteristics than the stock ones, but a harsher ride usually results as well (even over slight bumps).

Q: What tires work the best at the drag strip?

A: Mickey Thompson Sportsman Pro rear tires (26x9.50-16LT) are one of the better brands. But they're just barely DOT approved. M&H Racemaster street/ strip are also a good choice. They are great for drag racing, offering much more traction than the stock tires. Unfortunately, the tires are worthless for anything else. Cornering or driving in the rain with the M&H tires is a bad idea. Even on dry pavement at highway speeds is strange as the back of the car tends to wander back and forth. It's probably best to only use them at the strip.

It's also a good idea to screw the tires to the rims as the tires tend to slip around the rim. Drill a series of holes through the rims into the tires and put in rim screws. These hold the tires in place.

Q: How can I convert my old tire size (F60x15) to its metric equivalent?

A: The letters correspond to metric measurements with A=155mm through L=235mm ("I" is skipped). The number is the sidewall height to tread width ratio (just as it is now). For the F-bodies, the following conversion should work properly: E70x15 = P205/70R15, E60x15 = P225/60R15, F60-15 = P235/60R15, and G60x15 = P245/60R15. You want to make sure your try to keep the same height otherwise your speedometer is going to be off. A smaller diameter wheel will means that each revolution of the wheel covers less ground and you're going slower than the speedometer actually indicates. This also means the odometer reading is going have a lower amount of miles than you actually travelled. Remember that the gauges are calibrated to the stock tire size (diameter) from the factory and they will be thrown off by a change in tire diameter.

Although you can vary the width (to a certain point without rubbing the wheel well), you should try to keep the tire's overall height between 25.5" and 26.5" (stock size of just about all F-bodies). Computing the diameter of a metric sized tire (in inches) is easy. The metric tire size is given in a format of: width/aspect/rimsize (i.e. 245/50/16). To find the overall tire height, multiply the width by the aspect and then divide by 100. Multiply that number by .0394 to convert from millimeters to inches. Multiply that by 2 and finally add it to the rimsize. So a 245/50/16 tire would come out to roughly 25.65". Staying between 25.5" and 26.6" will maintain the factory look and your speedometer and odometer will remain fairly accurate.

Q: Where can I get longer wheel studs from?

A: Vette Brakes (1-800-237-9991) carries them.

Q: What is engine braking and is it advisable?

A: Engine braking is where you downshift approaching a stop rather than using the brakes. The shift of the tranny causes a shift in the momentum of the car, there by slowing it down naturally. It is NOT advisable. Engine braking leads to engine BREAKING! Use your brakes - they're much cheaper to replace than your clutch (excessive wear) or your engine (excessive revs).

Q: How can I fix my leaking (rain and wind) T-top?

A: You can adjust the T-tops in all directions: up/down, in/out and front/back. Once you remove the two screws that hold the A and/or C pillar cover, you'll see two bolts holding the T-roof bracket. Loosen these to adjust for front and back. To adjust up/down or side-to-side, remove the plastic bushing and use a 3/8" x 8" extension to bend the bracket the way you need it to go.

There is also a spray powder available that you spray on the seals. Then put the top back in and take it back out. You can see where contact is being made on the seals. When the top is in, you can see where things are going wrong. Any decent body shop should have this powder available.

Otherwise the t-top seals probably need to be replaced (the kit is part # 10164133). The key difference between the retro kit and the OEM method is a "secondary seal".

The factory did not use a second seal in the original installation. The OEM seals were installed using just an adhesive. The retrofit calls for both adhesive and strip chaulk; the chaulk is the secondary seal. So replacement of the rubber seals might not be necessary, only replacement of the adhesive and installation of 'strip chaulk' in the seal retainer's outer lip might be required. The adhesive is 3M part # 08011 or 08001 ($5), the strip chaulk is part # 8578 ($7.50). The adhesive comes in two viscosities, 8001 being thinner. To remove the old adhesive, use 3M's general purpose adhesive remover. It's about $10 a quart. The remover works best if allowed to soak, and if the goo is perturbed by a screwdriver blade it will gel up quicker for scraping away. A rag soaked with it and rubbed hard will take it off slowly. Try blowing off the residue with compressed air. The remover does not damage paint and won't eat the rubber.

The strip chaulk is pretty sticky. It is much softer than dum-dum putty and will accept a soft rubber seal and conform. This is the key to sealing; the adhesive just can't because of voids and the channels that retain the seals are not a tight fit at the sealing edges of the rubber. Handling of the chaulk is tricky. Keep a glass of water at hand to dampen your fingers.

Install the secondary seal chaulk in the outer edges of the seal retainers. Next, apply the adhesive to the inner and outer edges as primer coat, and then the seals get a coat just before installation.

Q: What's the best way to protect the weather stripping and T-top seals?

A: The best way to keep the rubber weather stripping in good condition is to use a silicone spray (or gel in a tube). Open the doors, hatch/trunk, and t-tops, and let the car sit in the sun for a little while. The heat will expand the rubber and make it more porous allowing it to absorb more. It's also best to clean the rubber with soap and water before beginning. Any dirt will prevent absorption and can cause cracking. Spray (or squeeze) a liberal amount of silicone on a clean rag and rub it into all pieces of the weather stripping. Put on a second coat if it looks like the first is being absorbed quickly. Then leave the doors, hatch/trunk, and t-tops open for a while, allowing the silicone to be completely absorbed. You should do this at least once a year, if not twice.

Q: What's the best way to apply new decals/stickers to the paint?

A: These things are next to impossible to apply correctly when dry and sticky. The easiest way to apply these sort of emblems is to apply them wet. Get a bucket of water and add a few drops of a dish detergent to the water. Either dip the applique in the water or thoroughly wet the sticky side using a spray bottle, also spray and wet the area you are applying the applique to on the car. The emblem will feel as if all the stickiness is gone. Put it on the car and position it as you want while wet. When satisfied with the positioning squegee with a credit card or whatever to smooth it and remove the bubbles. Carefuly wipe it dry and you're done. The stickiness returns when the water/detergent is gone.

Q: How can I properly reattach the emblem that fell off my car?

A: Get a roll of 3M Scotch Mount Double Coated Acrylic Foam Tape (Gray) - OEM approved. It's also sold as 3M Emblem and Body Molding tape. A 3' x 1/2" roll costs about $4. You can recognize the stuff by the red film which separates the layers of tape. It's the same material used by GM on your emblem, except that it comes in rolls and is not die-cut to shape. This is not a problem. You'll also need a sharp X-acto knife or razor blade and some alcohol or adhesive solvent.

Clean all of the old tape off the emblem and paint. Use solvent or alcohol to get it completely clean. Then apply the tape to the emblem in strips, leaving the red film on at this point. Cover it completely. Rub it a bit to set the tape. Then flip it over and use the x-acto knife to trim the tape around the edges and openings. Neatness counts here. A new blade helps a lot.

The tape is very sticky so you have to place the emblem precisely. If you have a good eye, you can just stick it to the car. You can try to align it to the residual "shadow" that usually shows on the paint. Try applying two strips of artists tape (masking tape will also work) to the face of the emblem leaving about 6" hanging upward. Then hang the emblem on the fender. Take a few steps back to make sure it's properly positioned. Finally, flip the emblem up (leaving the artists tape in place), peel the red film, and set the emblem back in its final resting place. Remove the artist's tape and apply pressure to emblem to set it nice and tight. That it.

Q: What's the best car wash/wax for my car?

A: This is a matter of individual taste and preference. However, in general, the following guidelines are considered basic:

• Never use a product with abrasives/and or detergents on a clear- coated car, especially one that is new.
• Always use soft 100 percent cotton terry cloth (or fuzzy gold mitts) for applying soaps and waxes.
• An orbital buffer is useless
• A rotary buffer can achieve results that hand waxing never could, however it is a skill that must be mastered as incorrect use can also damage the paint/clear coat.
• Never wash/wax a car in direct sunlight.
• Love elbow grease

                                    Better 5 ------ 1 Worse
     SCORE PRODUCT              TYPE GLOSS DURA EASE CLEAN PRICE
       81  Meguiar's Cleaner Wax                                                    
             Liquid A-1216        L    5     3    5    4   $5.38
       80  Nu Finish Soft Paste
             NFP-80               P    3     5    4    5    5.97
       74  Turtle Wax Carnauba
             Soft T225            P    4     4    4    4    4.99
       71  Nu Finish Liquid
             NF-76                L    3     4    5    4    5.27

Q: Why does the gas guage plummet after the 1/2 mark?

A: Yet another quirk among the f-body generations. The main reason for this is that the gas tank is sort of shaped like a 'V'. Because GM was to cheap to make an accurate mesaure, the guage just takes the depth of gas in the tank. As gas gets lower down in the tank, it's used faster than at the top of the tank due to the smaller volume. Thus gas is used quicker. The half way mark is actaully only 1/3 full. So when the needle starts going towards the 'E', find the next gas station because 'E' is means EMPTY.

Q: Where can I get a reproduction dashboard?

A: If you have the old dash (or even on from the junk yard), a company called Just Dashes (1-800-247-3274) will recover it with a new OEM quality material that looks better and lasts longer (supposedly) than the original. They use a vaccuum forming machine to apply it. Also, Classic Industries (1-800-854- 1280) is supposed to have reproductions available soon, too.

Q: What is the SCCA? How do I join?

A: The Sports Car Club of America is a national club for sports car enthusiasts. See the section "National Clubs" for details.

Q: What is autocross racing?

A: Autocrossing is a SCCA-sponsored race event where small "tracks" are setup in large parking lots (sometimes small race tracks are used), and the every- day-driver can bring their car and race in the event. Cars are grouped according to horse-power, weight, cylinders, and handling characteristics. One car is sent out on the track at a time, and is timed electronically. Each classification has an index which their time is multiplied by. This makes all cars somewhat competitive, and places more emphasis on the driver's skill. Tracks can include various challenges, including slaloms, increasing and decreasing radius turns, hair pins, etc... The tracks are lined with cones, so the worst that *usually* happens is you will knock over a cone, and get penalized on your time.

It is important to understand that autocross is not a speed-oriented event. Speeds are generally no more than 45mph and only in rare situations (and with very fast cars) will they go as high as perhaps 70mph. Again, the emphasis is on skill and handling, not absolute speed. A typical autocross run takes about 60-90 seconds total.

Typically, autocrossing is no more stressful on your car than the limits it was designed to handle for the everyday driver. Except for the clutch and tires of course. Consider one autocross event to be roughly equivalent to 500 miles of wear on your tires and clutch.

There are also non-SCCA events sponsored by local clubs. These clubs are often more lax in their definition of rookies and what consitutes a "stock" car.

Some tips:

• Many drivers have special, high performance (but still legally stock) tires that they swap on only for autocrossing events for extra grip and performance.

• Also, you may want to put more air (40-45 psi) in the front tires and about 35 psi in the back. If you don't increase air in the front tires they will fold under and wear on the outside substantially. Check power steering fluid levels before and after the event.

Q: What is considered stock in autocross?

A: Stock is probably the most competitive class in autocrossing. Within certain limits, you are ONLY allowed to:

1. Change the shocks
2. Change the brand of tires, so long as it fits on the stock rim
3. Adjust the suspension
4. Run any air and oil filter element (you may not mess with the airbox)
5. Change the exhaust from the cat back (you must retain the stock catalytic converter)

Q: What is the best launch technqiue for my car?

A: With the automatic, it's probably best to do power braking (1 foot slightly on the gas, the other on the brake), bringing the revs up to 1000 RPM. When the light goes green, lift off the brake and hammer the gas. Anything higher than 1000 RPM will probably cause you to spin. As for a stick stick shift, bring the RPMs up to about 2500. Then slip both the tires and the clutch in order to get the quickest take off.

In either case, a burnout of about 3 seconds is enough to heat the tires. Then stage the car as shallow as possible in order to accelerate forward a bit before getting out of the electric eye beams and starting the timer. This results in terrible reaction times, but it will give you a better 60 foot time and ET. You might also want to remove some weight like the jack and spare tire. Also, run with only 1/8 of a tank of gas to reduce weight.

As for the tires, the toe alignment can be set to zero in order to reduce rolling resistance, and pump the front tires up to 45 - 50 pounds for the same reason. Finally, reduce the rear tire pressure to 26 pounds for the best traction.

Q: What on-board systems are available measure performance numbers?

A: There's Vericom. It's a black box which attaches to the windshield with suction cups. It measures acceleration (time to speed, time to distance, distance to speed, etc) and braking (distance from speed, time from speed, etc). It can also measure G-forces and tell at which speed max G is reached or placed on the side window to measure lateral G-force. It can measure time for all sorts of acceleration modes, like 0-20, or 0-60, or 30-70, or whatever. All results are stored, so you can stop the car and look thru all the data. It is possible to change all measurements to metric or english readings.

Measurements tend to show an ET that's 0.1 seconds too slow because the Vericom starts immediately as the car starts, while at the strip, timing starts after the car has rolled a foot or so. The only thing you have to think about is to do all testing on a flat road. No uphill or downhill, as this will confuse the Vericom, and give you inaccurate measurements. Vericom can be reached at 1-800-533-5547 or 612-933-4256. They have a number of different models ranging from $493 up to $2695.

There's also AutoXray which also gives you basic performance numbers. It's much cheaper at only $220 from Crown Chevy (510-828-6500, speak to Phil Stokes in the part dept).

Q: What computer diagnostic tools are available for my car?

A: Rinda Technologies, Inc. (5112 N. Elston Avenue, Chicago, IL 60630) makes a program called Diacom which is an MS-DOS program that communicates with the ECM through a special cable that hooks up between your computer and the diagnostic connector (ALDL) under the dash. There are two versions of the program: a simple one costing $299 and an extended version costing $599.

The AutoXray Inc. (2615 Pacific Coast Hwy Wuite 300, Hermosa Beach, CA 90254 310-379-0099 questions, 1-800-794-3008 orders) has a scan tool that hooks up to the ALDL connector. If you have a 16 pin ALDL (94's and on) instead of the 12 pin, you'll need to jumper two wires from the supplied cable to your ALDL (the unit only needs ground and serial data). The scan tool is $300 and the cable is $30. The unit itself is about the size of a big calculator. It is powered by 4 AA batteries. It has four basic modes:

• Scan (takes a snapshot of all sensors/data)
• Monitor (monitors any sensor, real time)
• Capture (captures 14 seconds of sensor readings)
• Data (displays data captured under "scan" or "monitor")